Thursday, June 21, 2012


Visiting History One Bite At a Time


     I have been to Delmonico's before. But to be fair, I don't really remember the meal particularly well. I was a little overwhelmed. You see, I've been a little bit obsessed with the place ever since I'd read The Alienist by Caleb Carr. The story takes place in turn of the 20th century NY and Delmonico's was already about 65 years old and featured prominently in the novel. After reading the book I went researching and checking out this restaurant. As it turns out, Delmonico's was the first “a la carte” restaurant in the United States. That means it was the first eatery that you were able to order your meal piece by piece...appetizers, entrees and desserts by your choice from a selection rather than just whatever the chef prepared that day. This is the place where Lobster Newberg, Oysters Rockefeller, Baked Alaska, and for all you brunch lovers, Eggs Benedict were invented. This place is culinary history, folks. Up until then restaurants had their patrons seated at long communal tables rather than having a table for each party. This was a restaurant that served Abraham Lincoln, Teddy Roosevelt, Charles Dickens... Obviously, I was a bit enamored. So when Doreen surprised me with a trip here for my 30th birthday dinner, as I said, I was a little overwhelmed. It was like being 12-years-old and waking up Christmas morning to see a wrapped gift in the shape of the bicycle you've been wanting all year and then once you opened the present there was the Nintendo you never told anyone you wanted but had been dreaming about for months. Yes, I was THAT excited. When I walked between those columns my heart nearly beat out of my chest. So, the details of that visit got somewhat blurred in my amazement that someone thought of me enough to take me there and that I was actually there.
     
     7 years later, I made my return with Gina, one of my 3 favorite eating companions in the world. The conversation is never stilted, we laugh a lot and we eat a little less than we laugh. You can't ask for any more. I'm sometimes chided about how central food seems to be to me. Well, this is why. Food produces nights like these. There's a bond made between people that share a great meal together that isn't made any other way. It may have come to me late in life, but I've learned to respect that power.
     
     Oddly, I was still pretty damn excited to be going there. Now I know it's not the same exact place as the restaurant that had that name 175 years ago. But it's the same space. They serve some of the same menu. And those columns were there nearly 2 centuries ago like aging sentinels watching over the name of Delmonico's. Kind of like that ancient knight from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade watching the grail. Much like Indy did...we chose wisely. This time around I was better able to take in, or at least better able to process, how elegant it is inside. The beautiful murals on the walls. The impeccably tuxedoed wait staff. Hell, even the Delmonico's emblazoned steak knives and plates. I was really tempted to steal a steak knife but it seemed too much like something a blue-haired old lady would do.

     Now if you're going out to enjoy what is supposed to be a reverent and fantastic meal...go out with someone that absolutely loves to eat. The only way to top that is to go out with a woman who is 5-months pregnant that loves to eat. So that's exactly what I did. Although honestly we didn't really indulge any more than we normally would have. Which isn't to say we didn't eat a lot. It's just to say that we normally eat a lot when we go out like this.

     To start with we went with; Crab cakes which had bits of chili and pineapple in them. They were pretty damn tasty. Not fantastic, but tasty. Oysters “Diamond Jim Brady”, which is basically a stepped-up, more indulgent version of Oysters Rockefeller. These wonderful bivalves come topped with spinach, Champagne cream and pancetta. Absolutely fantastic. We also had Grilled Spanish Octopus. I love me some eight-legged sea creatures but sadly these were a bit of a let down. The octopus was somewhat over-cooked and a little bland. The salad it came on with chorizo and somekind of roasted peppers was pretty good though. A very nicely made Manhattan made me a happy camper as well.

     When in a steakhouse, you've got to eat beef. Otherwise there's really no point in being there unless you're a regular and you want to try everything on the menu. We went for cow. Yummy, yummy cow. 16 oz T-Bones for us. With that lovely char and the beautiful red color in the middle. They may have fed the cows these steaks came from nothing but butter for years because that's how buttery this meat was. For sides, we didn't go with the usual fare of creamed spinach and such. I don't really know why actually. I guess because we didn't want to order absolutely everything on the menu and have them need wheelbarrows to get us out of there. So we went with roasted mushrooms, which were excellent. The summer version of Delmonico Potatoes, which were pretty good but missing the hints of nutmeg I remember from the version I had 7 years ago. I liked the winter ones better. And how can you not order something called King Crab Macaroni and Cheese. This was some seriously decadent mac and cheese. It didn't have as much crab flavor as I would have liked. I think maybe the crab was a somewhat overwhelmed by all the cream and cheese. It was excellent macaroni and cheese...just not really very crabbish.

     With most folks, we go to dinner and never make it to dessert. By the time we get to that point in the meal we can barely manage a cup of coffee and some groans and grunts of satisfaction. When I'm out with Gina, that's never the case. There's always room for dessert. I don't know what it is about sharing a meal with her but somehow my stomach expands just a little bit more. Maybe I just know what's expected of me when she's sitting across the table and my body adjusts accordingly. So Gina got a really good hazelnut chocolate cake that came with amazing vanilla ice cream. And since I've never had it, and they're famous for it, I tried Baked Alaska. It was OK. The meringue wasn't my favorite thing in the world. But once you got past that strangely textured stuff the walnut cake and banana gelato underneath were pretty damn good. Especially with another Manhattan. I really should've asked what they used in their Manhattans because they were fucking excellent.

     I'm really glad I went back to Delmonico's for a 2nd time. The first time was a fantastic experience. The second time was a fantastic meal. I would definitely go back for a 3rd time.

Delmonico's
56 Beaver Street, NYC
212-509-1144


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